The Festa
dei Ceri
The Most Beautiful Festival in the World
The Festa dei Ceri, held every May 15th in Gubbio, is undoubtedly a great celebration of the people. It’s a mystery linked to the sacred. A rite miraculously preserved, saved, and protected. Words often fall short when it comes to describing the Ceri of Gubbio.
The love from which it was born—devotion to the patron saint, Saint Ubaldo—almost certainly grew from even older rituals, perhaps dating back to the ancient Umbrian people, according to some historians and anthropologists. This tradition has survived everything: wars, emigration, and monumental changes in daily life and community culture. For the people of Gubbio, it is the most beautiful festival in the world—and they’re probably right.
So let’s start with this premise (while admitting we might be proven wrong): if the most beautiful festival in the world is in Gubbio, then you must experience it at least once in your life—on May 15th.
Never been to
the Festa dei Ceri
of Gubbio? Is it
your first time?
We’re here to help with some useful information: how to understand its meaning, how to approach it, and how to embrace its language and spirit. Remember, the Festa dei Ceri truly belongs to the people of Gubbio, who have lovingly guarded its memory for at least a thousand years. As they say here, “‘l Cero ‘n se ferma”—“the Cero doesn’t stop.” When it runs, the Eugubini enter a kind of trance and won’t let anything get in the way.
If crowds overwhelm you, don’t worry—you can still enjoy the festival by finding the right places and times. We’ll guide you through. The sheer energy radiating from the ceraioli (the Cero bearers) and the crowd chasing the Ceri may be hard to grasp at first. That’s okay. Experience the festival based on who you are, with your own sensitivity.
But if you love diving into a joyous, vibrant humanity—so rare to find in our modern world—then you have nothing to fear. The embrace of the people will protect you.
This is not a historical reenactment. It’s not a parade. It’s not even a race in the usual sense. There are no fences, no entry tickets, no grandstands. You may have heard that on the Day of the Ceri, people seem a bit mad—and that’s partly true. You have to let go of reason and logic and accept this: the Festa dei Ceri cannot truly be explained. It must be lived.
Are you ready?
Let’s begin.
First essential tip. To experience everything fully, you’ll need to be in Gubbio early on the 15th. And on the evening of May 14th, at 7:00 PM, you can go to Piazza Grande to hear the toll of the Campanone, the great bell of the Palazzo dei Consoli, rung by hand by the bellringers. You can’t miss it—this is when the atmosphere starts to ignite.
Under the arches of the piazza in Via Baldassini, the traditional “Baccalà alla ceraiola” (salt cod) is served. Improvised bands play in the streets, neighborhoods burst with toasts and dancing. You’ll hear songs and rhymes that will return the next day during the parade—a great way to get to know the locals and their playful spirit.
If you’re staying in the historic center: At 5:30 AM, you’ll be awakened by drums roaming the streets, waking the Captains and Capodieci. Captains are two: the First Captain commands the city race, while the Second Captain is in charge of the morning “Alzata” (raising of the Ceri) and the mountain run. During the day you will easily recognize them, because they ride on horseback and always anticipate the arrival of the Ceri. The Capodieci are three—one for each Cero—and can be recognized by the emblem on their shirts: Saint Ubaldo – the mitre, Saint George – the helmet e Saint Anthony – the flame. They lead each Cero and its team of ceraioli through every phase of the celebration.
© Andrea Cancellotti
If you’re up for the full experience, at 7:00 AM, join the crowd at the Civic Cemetery for a tribute to the fallen ceraioli. Yes, the first act of the day is remembering the dead—a reminder that this festival reflects the very cycle of life.
As you move toward the center, you’ll see people dressed in white pants, red sashes, colored shirts—yellow, blue, or black—and red scarves around their necks. They walk in groups or alone, some rushing, others strolling.
Yellow = devotion to Saint Ubaldo, the lead Cero
Blue = Saint George, always second
Black = Saint Anthony, always third and heaviest
The Ceri themselves are impressive wooden structures, around 5 meters tall and weighing approximately 300 kg (660 lbs), carried on the shoulders of the ceraioli.
Which Cero to choose? Unlike other traditional festivals, affiliation to a Cero isn’t based on neighborhoods. It’s usually passed down through families—but not always. In truth, you choose your Cero, like falling in love. You can even wear a ceraiolo outfit or simply tie a red scarf around your neck. Everyone is welcome.
Women, children, boys and girls, the guests of the Toschi Mosca Rest Home and the Day Centers, people with disabilities, and even newborns wear the colors. Sometimes, even dogs sport a red scarf!
Which Cero to choose? Unlike other traditional festivals, affiliation to a Cero isn’t based on neighborhoods. It’s usually passed down through families—but not always. In truth, you choose your Cero, like falling in love. You can even wear a ceraiolo outfit or simply tie a red scarf around your neck. Everyone is welcome.
Women, children, boys and girls, the guests of the Toschi Mosca Rest Home and the Day Centers, people with disabilities, and even newborns wear the colors. Sometimes, even dogs sport a red scarf!
Each in their own way, to participate, with colors and with heart.
© Giampaolo Pauselli
If you want to attend the Ceraioli Mass, meet at 8:00 AM in front of the San Francesco della Pace Church. From there, the Saints’ Procession begins and continues to Piazza Grande. You can take part, observe, and you might even be invited to enjoy a slice of ciambelotto and a glass of straightforward wine in someone’s entrance hall.
Between 9:00 and 10:00 AM, many people gather in Borgo Santa Lucia to receive a small bouquet of flowers, which the ceraioli tie to their red neckerchief. The bouquet is a gift full of meaning and gratitude. It’s not easy to get one if you’re not from Gubbio, but it can happen.
The Ceraioli Parade begins at 10:00 AM from Porta Castello and winds its way through the city to Piazza Grande. The procession follows a set order: first the Ceraioli of Sant’Ubaldo, then those of San Giorgio, and finally those of Sant’Antonio. This is the moment of singing. You’ll hear “Tazzilleri”, “Primavera baciata dal sole”, “San Giorgio San Giorgio”, “Quel mazzolin di fiori”, “Fazzoletto puntato davanti”, and “Da ‘ste finestre basse saranno ‘ste ragazze”… You’ll learn them quickly. It’s easy to join in, if you want—the parade is open to all, but it’s best to wear the proper outfit.
If you want to attend the Ceraioli Mass, meet at 8:00 AM in front of the San Francesco della Pace Church. From there, the Saints’ Procession begins and continues to Piazza Grande. You can take part, observe, and you might even be invited to enjoy a slice of ciambelotto and a glass of straightforward wine in someone’s entrance hall.
Between 9:00 and 10:00 AM, many people gather in Borgo Santa Lucia to receive a small bouquet of flowers, which the ceraioli tie to their red neckerchief. The bouquet is a gift full of meaning and gratitude. It’s not easy to get one if you’re not from Gubbio, but it can happen.
The Ceraioli Parade begins at 10:00 AM from Porta Castello and winds its way through the city to Piazza Grande. The procession follows a set order: first the Ceraioli of Sant’Ubaldo, then those of San Giorgio, and finally those of Sant’Antonio. This is the moment of singing. You’ll hear “Tazzilleri”, “Primavera baciata dal sole”, “San Giorgio San Giorgio”, “Quel mazzolin di fiori”, “Fazzoletto puntato davanti”, and “Da ‘ste finestre basse saranno ‘ste ragazze”… You’ll learn them quickly. It’s easy to join in, if you want—the parade is open to all, but it’s best to wear the proper outfit.
Arriving in Piazza Grande with the parade is wonderful, but be aware that it will already be packed with people. So if you still want to witness the Alzata but need some time to adjust to the crowd, we recommend getting there early and finding a spot off to the side, preferably with some shade (if it’s hot, the wait can be exhausting). Keep bulk to a minimum.
The Municipality of Gubbio always provides helpful information on this. There are a few rules to follow to safely attend the Alzata dei Ceri, which is a spectacular, awe-inspiring moment and a must-see to understand the deep meaning of the Festival.
The preparation for the Alzata is a ritual. Things happen that you may not be able to see, unless you’re right by the Scalea of the Palazzo or under the Ceri themselves—but that’s where the ceraioli are, better stay clear… The Ceri are “assembled” in the square in front of a joyful crowd who follows every step with cheers and shouts. There are moments of waiting. The energy released by this square reaching up to the sky in the seconds before the Alzata is incredible. The packed square becomes a single body, a single voice, a single thought. The Ceri are ready, the capodieci lift the jugs and hurl them into the crowd. If you’re right in the middle of it, it means you’re as mad as the Eugubini, so don’t be surprised if you see people fighting to pocket a shard of broken jug…
The Ceri make three turns (the last one, Sant’Antonio, always does one more), and then the Mostra begins. It’s not the race yet—let’s say it’s a more relaxed moment. Each Cero follows its own route, paying homage to former capodieci or symbolic places. It’s also a touching and affectionate time—people get close to the Cero, touch it, sometimes an elderly person steps under the bar, and even women in this moment can try to “give a shoulder.”
So you’ll wander around, maybe rest at a restaurant or stop in the small square of Sant’Antonio (Piazza Oderisi) for an aperitif or a sandwich. Several marching bands roam through the city, and dance and celebration pop up everywhere. Walking through streets and alleys, you’ll see many makeshift “taverns,” open doors of people’s homes. Everywhere, someone offers a glass of wine. Try chatting with the locals—if you’ve got a bit of “coionarella” (a playful, joking spirit), you’ll receive plenty of warm-hearted hospitality, guaranteed!
Arriving in Piazza Grande with the parade is wonderful, but be aware that it will already be packed with people. So if you still want to witness the Alzata but need some time to adjust to the crowd, we recommend getting there early and finding a spot off to the side, preferably with some shade (if it’s hot, the wait can be exhausting). Keep bulk to a minimum.
The Municipality of Gubbio always provides helpful information on this. There are a few rules to follow to safely attend the Alzata dei Ceri, which is a spectacular, awe-inspiring moment and a must-see to understand the deep meaning of the Festival.
The preparation for the Alzata is a ritual. Things happen that you may not be able to see, unless you’re right by the Scalea of the Palazzo or under the Ceri themselves—but that’s where the ceraioli are, better stay clear… The Ceri are “assembled” in the square in front of a joyful crowd who follows every step with cheers and shouts. There are moments of waiting. The energy released by this square reaching up to the sky in the seconds before the Alzata is incredible. The packed square becomes a single body, a single voice, a single thought. The Ceri are ready, the capodieci lift the jugs and hurl them into the crowd. If you’re right in the middle of it, it means you’re as mad as the Eugubini, so don’t be surprised if you see people fighting to pocket a shard of broken jug…
The Ceri make three turns (the last one, Sant’Antonio, always does one more), and then the Mostra begins. It’s not the race yet—let’s say it’s a more relaxed moment. Each Cero follows its own route, paying homage to former capodieci or symbolic places. It’s also a touching and affectionate time—people get close to the Cero, touch it, sometimes an elderly person steps under the bar, and even women in this moment can try to “give a shoulder.”
So you’ll wander around, maybe rest at a restaurant or stop in the small square of Sant’Antonio (Piazza Oderisi) for an aperitif or a sandwich. Several marching bands roam through the city, and dance and celebration pop up everywhere. Walking through streets and alleys, you’ll see many makeshift “taverns,” open doors of people’s homes. Everywhere, someone offers a glass of wine. Try chatting with the locals—if you’ve got a bit of “coionarella” (a playful, joking spirit), you’ll receive plenty of warm-hearted hospitality, guaranteed!
The race begins at 6:00 PM. Our advice is to wait along Corso Garibaldi starting from 5:00 PM. Take cover under the loggette if the crowd intimidates you. From there, you can still see the Ceri run by. You have to understand that you can’t see the entire race—just brief, lightning-fast glimpses. At some point, if you’re on the Corso, you’ll see the procession of the Statue of Sant’Ubaldo pass. All of Gubbio’s love for its patron saint, heartfelt and passionate, pours out in the moving song O lume della fede.
Then the two Capitani gallop forward, followed by the Trumpeter and the Standard-Bearer. The race begins.
From this moment until the climb up the mountain, you can choose different spots around the city to see them pass by. The Ceri stop at several points in the historic center to allow the “mute” of ceraioli to get into place. A “muta” is a team of sixteen men who take turns carrying the Cero. The race is like a relay—the mute pass the Cero while running, until they reach the Basilica of Sant’Ubaldo via the mountain roads. Sometimes one of the Ceri may fall. It can happen, but it’s rare, and in any case, in their long history, such falls have never caused serious accidents.
Many people choose to head straight to the mountain to wait for them. You can go up by cable car—just be patient, as lines can be long—or on foot. It’s an uphill walk along a dirt road of about two kilometers, not too strenuous. The arrival of the Ceri at the Basilica is one of the most emotional moments. Here, the ceraioli give full expression to their devotion in the final moments before placing the Ceri back inside, where they will remain until the first Sunday in May of the following year, when they are brought back into the city.
The race begins at 6:00 PM. Our advice is to wait along Corso Garibaldi starting from 5:00 PM. Take cover under the loggette if the crowd intimidates you. From there, you can still see the Ceri run by. You have to understand that you can’t see the entire race—just brief, lightning-fast glimpses. At some point, if you’re on the Corso, you’ll see the procession of the Statue of Sant’Ubaldo pass. All of Gubbio’s love for its patron saint, heartfelt and passionate, pours out in the moving song O lume della fede.
Then the two Capitani gallop forward, followed by the Trumpeter and the Standard-Bearer. The race begins.
From this moment until the climb up the mountain, you can choose different spots around the city to see them pass by. The Ceri stop at several points in the historic center to allow the “mute” of ceraioli to get into place. A “muta” is a team of sixteen men who take turns carrying the Cero. The race is like a relay—the mute pass the Cero while running, until they reach the Basilica of Sant’Ubaldo via the mountain roads. Sometimes one of the Ceri may fall. It can happen, but it’s rare, and in any case, in their long history, such falls have never caused serious accidents.
Many people choose to head straight to the mountain to wait for them. You can go up by cable car—just be patient, as lines can be long—or on foot. It’s an uphill walk along a dirt road of about two kilometers, not too strenuous. The arrival of the Ceri at the Basilica is one of the most emotional moments. Here, the ceraioli give full expression to their devotion in the final moments before placing the Ceri back inside, where they will remain until the first Sunday in May of the following year, when they are brought back into the city.
In short, dear visitors, know that this is a demanding celebration if you want to experience it to the fullest—you’ll walk a lot, and sometimes find yourself tightly pressed in the crowd—but it can also be enjoyed at your own pace. There’s no need to do everything or chase after every event. It depends on your stage in life and your interests. At times, the ceraioli may seem a bit brusque, but try to understand them. Let them through, give way, be patient if they push—they’re positioning themselves for the mute, it’s nothing personal…
Carrying the Cero during the race is no easy task. It’s a generous act of love and responsibility toward the whole community, because it keeps alive a memory that refuses to be lost.
To ensure this tradition continues through the generations and to seal an unbreakable bond between the community and the Ceri, Gubbio has wisely created the Festa dei Ceri Mezzani (the first Sunday after May 17) and the Festa dei Ceri Piccoli (June 2). The Ceri are reproduced to scale, suitable for children and teenagers to carry. The ritual is identical—from the Alzata to the arrival at the Basilica.
In short, dear visitors, know that this is a demanding celebration if you want to experience it to the fullest—you’ll walk a lot, and sometimes find yourself tightly pressed in the crowd—but it can also be enjoyed at your own pace. There’s no need to do everything or chase after every event. It depends on your stage in life and your interests. At times, the ceraioli may seem a bit brusque, but try to understand them. Let them through, give way, be patient if they push—they’re positioning themselves for the mute, it’s nothing personal…
Carrying the Cero during the race is no easy task. It’s a generous act of love and responsibility toward the whole community, because it keeps alive a memory that refuses to be lost.
To ensure this tradition continues through the generations and to seal an unbreakable bond between the community and the Ceri, Gubbio has wisely created the Festa dei Ceri Mezzani (the first Sunday after May 17) and the Festa dei Ceri Piccoli (June 2). The Ceri are reproduced to scale, suitable for children and teenagers to carry. The ritual is identical—from the Alzata to the arrival at the Basilica.
© Paolo Tosti
“I arrived early that first time and leaned against the wall beneath the statue. There were people, but it wasn’t a crowd yet. Then it became a crowd, but not yet a solid mass—until suddenly, at the sight of the Ceri, it compressed beyond the boundary of individual bodies… I was no longer myself, but a negligible particle of a superhuman ‘us’… A collective body that accompanies you—no, that replaces you—for a long pursuit… up the hill, cutting the bends so as never to be overtaken, to arrive ahead of the arrival, the entry, the closing, the circling of the cloister, the laying to rest and triumph of the Ceri. Finally the dazed and disoriented return downhill, back to the city and to oneself, gradually regaining breath and the sense of an ‘I’ that had been forgotten. An ‘I’ that slowly repossesses its body—but not yet its soul, which still seems to remain up there…”
Piergiorgio Giacché, anthropologist
